Old Damascus

MEMORIES OF SYRIA

Getting lost Old Damascus, within the maze of narrow lanes and walkways, is like stepping into ancient history.

OLD DAMASCUS, SYRIA

SIGHTSEEING IN OLD DAMASCUS

Lonely Planet has written walking tours for Old Damascus which give the flexibility to linger at sights which interest you and allow you to move on from those which don’t.

Even if you are non-Muslim take the opportunity to visit inside the magnificent Umayyad Mosque, one of the holiest mosques in the world for Muslims and also the Iranian built Sayyida Ruqayya Mosque.

There are times when it is best to put the guide book away and just get “lost” down the narrow back streets where you will discover more of this fascinating city beyond it’s touristy landmarks. We highly recommend getting “lost”.

FOOD & DRINK IN OLD DAMASCUS

Street food:
Bakdash
Don’t miss out on the soft ice cream made with sahlab (a tapioca-root drink) topped with pistachio nuts. It’s easy to find, just follow the line of locals and tourists licking the delight in Souq Al-Hamidiyya. Make your way to the cash register and point to the picture menu on the counter. The cashier will give you a token, then move to the fellow dipping cones into the container of pistachios and hold out your token. When he takes it, your next.
Bakeries
You don’t have to walk far between bakeries in Old Damascus and if you have a sweet tooth, like most Syrians, your taste buds will want to try a myriad of doughnuts and pastries.
Stop for Tea
At the bottom of a set of stairs by the east side of Umayyad Mosque is an ideal place to sip sweet Syrian tea and people watch or strike up conversations with locals or other visitors. Coming down the stairs on the right is Al-Nawfara Coffee Shop noted for it’s evening story tellers and more outside tables. On the opposite side is Ash-Shams where their narrow band of tables, we were told, are more frequented by locals and repeat visitors ‘in the know’ and the tea less expensive.
Restaurants: The food in Syria is wonderful and comparatively inexpensive and restaurants are plentiful, so try a different one each night. Syrians traditionally eat later, so many establishments might look empty if you arrive before 7:30pm but doing so allows an opportunity to find a good people watching table. Restaurants, converted from old mansions, usually serve family style dishes. Naan bread most often arrives at the table and is included. Try using torn pieces of naan bread instead of a fork as the locals do.

GETTING AROUND OLD DAMASCUS

Amman, Jordan to Damascus, Syria: Purchase bus tickets day before departure. Bus leaves from Amman Jett Bus Office. Trip from Amman to Damascus approximately 7 hours.
Arrived Damascus (Ash-Sham to locals) at the Al-Samariyeh Garage on the western outskirts of the city. At this point Syrian money is needed to take a taxi or make prior arrangements with hotel/hostel.

Damascus to Aleppo: Taxi to Khaddan train station (about 5 km southwest of the centre). Trip to Aleppo approximately 4.5 hours.

Always insist taxi driver uses meter.